I have been in Nicaragua for well over a month now. The vacation feeling has worn off and I am starting to feel homesick. Sometimes I just want a good confidant. Now, I am becoming closer to two of the students in the program and am getting more confident with my Spanish. It really is amazing how much my Spanish has improved over the last 6 weeks or so.
I cannot decide if I like Managua or not. I have realized that I just do not enjoy big cities. Denver is not a big city, especially in comparison with the cities of the East Coast of the US. I remember when I lived in Dolores, CO this time last year. Dolores only has 800 people and many of this 800 do not live in the town itself. My time in Nicaragua is part understanding the culture of another country and gaining a better understanding of urban culture as well. I have studied migration to cities in class but am seeing it in a different way in Nicaragua.
I am trying to find a routine and time to do things to relax and destress. It is hard sometimes to balance life when we have a lot of work to do (essays, presenations, readings, and preparing to lead class discussions). This week I plan on cooking and doing more yoga. I also just got a hair wrap done today--it is brown with a mix of blue, green, and yellow. Sometimes you have to do little things for yourself to find...INTERNAL PEACE. (Today, in class we talked about a culture of peace and the necessity of internal peace in the field of conflict resolution.)
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Coconut Bread, Crabs, and dancing with the Garifunas!
The trip to the coast is something that many Nicaraguans are not able to do. We were in bus for 6 hours or so and then 2 more hours in panga (motor boat). We spent the first night in Bluefields and ate rondon (a stew of fish, cassava, other vegetables, and coconut sauce). The next morning we took another panga to Pearl Lagoon. Here we stayed at Green Lodge and had Mr. Wesley as our on site director. In addition to being the owner of Green Lodge, he works with mediation and conflict resolution. I wish that I would have had more time to talk to him about this subject. (As we begin our module on the culture of peace, I am starting to become sure that I want to work in conflict resolution after college. I already do some work with conflict resolution, but I believe I could truly be happy devoting my time to this field. My friends for the SIT program, Amber and Molly, think that I have the skills or personality for this field as well).
Back to the Coast...We learned a lot about the situation of Autonomy. The Coast was originally a British Protectorate and was never formally colonized. Now, the Atlantic Coast has been incorporated/conquered by the Pacific Coast and the central government of Nicaragua. I used both verbs because this unification is controversials. Costeños feel like they have been conquered and feel like second class citizens. The Autonomy Law aims to give more rights to the Costeños but at times, these rights only exist on paper and not in reality.
One right is to learn in their mother tongue. There are bilingual schools that teach English and Spanish. However, many children have other languages for their mother tongue. A common language is Creole. One guest lecturer, Angela Brown, told us that Creole should not be called a badly spoken English. When a child hears that their language is inferior, this opinion translates to an opinion that the child is inferior as well. Children need to be empowered and language is part of their identity. Also, Angela Brown argued that if a child learns to read and write first in their mother tongue, then it will be easier to learn other languages like English and Spanish.
We visited a school called PLACE (Pearl Lagoon Academic Center for Excellence). This school is very progressive and is trying to get parents and the community involved in their children's school. The school also offers classes in music, art, and computers. They understand that not everyone will be gifted in the traditional curriculum of school and need other areas to excel and perhaps make a living. Music and art can be great options for these children. The school also works with teacher capacitation and has a system for placing substitutes when teachers are sick. When we were in el campo and visited the comunity of La Ceiba near Maltagalpa, teachers canceling class seemed to be a huge issue.
On Thursday afternoon, we went to the Keyes of Pearl Lagoon. We were very lucky because during other past fall semesters, the weather has not permitted this kind of activity. We collected sea shells, snorkeled and swam in the beautiful water. The Keyes are interesting because they are mostly (or all) private islands. Currently, Pearl Lagoon is going through a process of land demarcation and titling. Most land will become communal property. I am curious to see what will happen with these islands.
On Friday, we spent most of the day with families. Rose and I spent the day with Sony McCoy and his family. (We caught crabs for 3 hours or so. I can tell you more details if you want about the process.) It was a great experienced but I burned my back pretty badly. Afterwards, his wife cooked the crabs in a delicious coconut broth and we ate them with plantains and rice.
On Saturday, we returned to Bluefields and visited the BICU (Bluefields Indian and Creole University). Later that night we had a performance with a Garifuna dance group. The Garifunas are an ethnic group of African and indigenous decent. Some of the rhythms and dances reminded me of West African dance in Boulder. When I danced with this Garifuna dance group, I felt like I was back in Boulder. It was one of the happiest/care free moments of my time in Nicaragua thus far.
Food: fish, shrimp, cassava, pasta, and coconut bread (made with coconut milk)
And of course, crabs that I caught myself.
Finally, I was able to do yoga two mornings on the balconey while the sun was rising = one of the peaceful experiences of my life.
Back to the Coast...We learned a lot about the situation of Autonomy. The Coast was originally a British Protectorate and was never formally colonized. Now, the Atlantic Coast has been incorporated/conquered by the Pacific Coast and the central government of Nicaragua. I used both verbs because this unification is controversials. Costeños feel like they have been conquered and feel like second class citizens. The Autonomy Law aims to give more rights to the Costeños but at times, these rights only exist on paper and not in reality.
One right is to learn in their mother tongue. There are bilingual schools that teach English and Spanish. However, many children have other languages for their mother tongue. A common language is Creole. One guest lecturer, Angela Brown, told us that Creole should not be called a badly spoken English. When a child hears that their language is inferior, this opinion translates to an opinion that the child is inferior as well. Children need to be empowered and language is part of their identity. Also, Angela Brown argued that if a child learns to read and write first in their mother tongue, then it will be easier to learn other languages like English and Spanish.
We visited a school called PLACE (Pearl Lagoon Academic Center for Excellence). This school is very progressive and is trying to get parents and the community involved in their children's school. The school also offers classes in music, art, and computers. They understand that not everyone will be gifted in the traditional curriculum of school and need other areas to excel and perhaps make a living. Music and art can be great options for these children. The school also works with teacher capacitation and has a system for placing substitutes when teachers are sick. When we were in el campo and visited the comunity of La Ceiba near Maltagalpa, teachers canceling class seemed to be a huge issue.
On Thursday afternoon, we went to the Keyes of Pearl Lagoon. We were very lucky because during other past fall semesters, the weather has not permitted this kind of activity. We collected sea shells, snorkeled and swam in the beautiful water. The Keyes are interesting because they are mostly (or all) private islands. Currently, Pearl Lagoon is going through a process of land demarcation and titling. Most land will become communal property. I am curious to see what will happen with these islands.
On Friday, we spent most of the day with families. Rose and I spent the day with Sony McCoy and his family. (We caught crabs for 3 hours or so. I can tell you more details if you want about the process.) It was a great experienced but I burned my back pretty badly. Afterwards, his wife cooked the crabs in a delicious coconut broth and we ate them with plantains and rice.
On Saturday, we returned to Bluefields and visited the BICU (Bluefields Indian and Creole University). Later that night we had a performance with a Garifuna dance group. The Garifunas are an ethnic group of African and indigenous decent. Some of the rhythms and dances reminded me of West African dance in Boulder. When I danced with this Garifuna dance group, I felt like I was back in Boulder. It was one of the happiest/care free moments of my time in Nicaragua thus far.
Food: fish, shrimp, cassava, pasta, and coconut bread (made with coconut milk)
And of course, crabs that I caught myself.
Finally, I was able to do yoga two mornings on the balconey while the sun was rising = one of the peaceful experiences of my life.
Sunday, October 3, 2010
let's go to Granada tonight!
We do not have many free weekends, so we want to make the most of them. Granada is known as a more touristy city that has a colonial feel. Originally, I was not going to go with 4 other students. However, in usual Mindy-style, I decided last minute to join them. It is harder to live my life in this manner in Nicaragua (and I am trying to not live 'by the seat of my pants.') We left on Friday afternoon and I returned on Saturday in order to go to a birthday party of one of my Nicaraguan friends. (However, the rain was too strong Saturday and I ended up staying home.) The other girls returned on Sunday.
In Granada, Amber and I stayed at a hostel called the Bearded Monkey. I love hostels. There seems to always be a fun bartender and travelers with stories. We had a drink at the hostel and then met the other 3 students for dinner. They stayed in a hotel. Granada was refreshing because we could walk around comfortably. There is a street of bars and restaurants called Calle la Calzada. It is touristy with smoothie bars, art galleries, and gift shops. You can eat in the street and be constantly asked to buy cigarettes, chocolate, etc. There were also street performers with La Gigontona and break dancers.
Later, we ran into several Dutch travelers from our hostel. For a night, I felt like more of a tourist. It was also one of the few times that I have 'gone out' in Nicaragua. At home in Colorado, I do not go out that much and here it feels very different. There are not the same casual bars like we have in Boulder (ie Connor O'Neill's, the Boulder Drafthouse, etc.) Instead, Nicaraguans dress up in sparkly shirts and dresses, tight dark jeans, and high heels or gladiator sandals. I do not feel like I have appropriate clothes for 'going out.' Also, I just heard stories about El Chaman, a popular club, that turns away people because of what they are wearing. They will also turn about 'older' people and have been known to turn away people with darker skin (from the Atlantic Coast). In Boulder, I have never run into this type of club before. I know they exist in the US and may even exist in Denver, but they are something very new to me.
But I digress...
In Granada, there are touristy streets and cafes but you just need to go 5 blocks over and you are back in the 'real' Nicaragua. The hustling and bustling Nicaragua with crazy traffic and street vendors. It was nice to get away from Managua for a night and see the beauty of Granada. However, I prefer the experience in Managua (living with a homestay, eating typical Nicaraguan food, and not being constantly surrounded by a world manicured for a tourist). Will Managua change to be developed for the needs of tourism? I doubt that it will happen in the near future...but who knows?
In Granada, Amber and I stayed at a hostel called the Bearded Monkey. I love hostels. There seems to always be a fun bartender and travelers with stories. We had a drink at the hostel and then met the other 3 students for dinner. They stayed in a hotel. Granada was refreshing because we could walk around comfortably. There is a street of bars and restaurants called Calle la Calzada. It is touristy with smoothie bars, art galleries, and gift shops. You can eat in the street and be constantly asked to buy cigarettes, chocolate, etc. There were also street performers with La Gigontona and break dancers.
Later, we ran into several Dutch travelers from our hostel. For a night, I felt like more of a tourist. It was also one of the few times that I have 'gone out' in Nicaragua. At home in Colorado, I do not go out that much and here it feels very different. There are not the same casual bars like we have in Boulder (ie Connor O'Neill's, the Boulder Drafthouse, etc.) Instead, Nicaraguans dress up in sparkly shirts and dresses, tight dark jeans, and high heels or gladiator sandals. I do not feel like I have appropriate clothes for 'going out.' Also, I just heard stories about El Chaman, a popular club, that turns away people because of what they are wearing. They will also turn about 'older' people and have been known to turn away people with darker skin (from the Atlantic Coast). In Boulder, I have never run into this type of club before. I know they exist in the US and may even exist in Denver, but they are something very new to me.
But I digress...
In Granada, there are touristy streets and cafes but you just need to go 5 blocks over and you are back in the 'real' Nicaragua. The hustling and bustling Nicaragua with crazy traffic and street vendors. It was nice to get away from Managua for a night and see the beauty of Granada. However, I prefer the experience in Managua (living with a homestay, eating typical Nicaraguan food, and not being constantly surrounded by a world manicured for a tourist). Will Managua change to be developed for the needs of tourism? I doubt that it will happen in the near future...but who knows?
the one month mark
We have just finished our first month in Nicaragua. I am getting more comfortable with navigating the city and understanding directions. When U2 sang about the place "where the streets have no name," they were singing about Managua. Nicaraguans orient themselves al lago (to the lake) or al sur (to the south) and then use arriba and abajo and numbers of blocks. You have to remember (and be able to say in Spanish) a serious of these directions.
I am feeling more comfortable with transportation as well. I have taken public buses around Managua. This weekend, some of the students and I went to Granada but I needed to return a day early. I found the bus stop and took the bus back to Managua by myself. I have also walked by myself from the grocery store. These seemingly little actions are tremendously liberating. For me, it can be difficult and frustrating to constantly walking in a group of 6 or so. I understand at times this is necessary and often is more fun. But, little bursts of freedom to walk by myself are great. It is still hard to sometimes know when it is 'okay' to walk by myself. For example, today my homestay mother said that I shouldn't walk to the study center at 1pm in the afternoon because it is a Sunday.
On another note, I am generally enjoying the food. Beans and rice have not gotten old yet. I eat a lot of chicken and sometimes plantains. I will try and post about typical Nicaraguan food soon. I also am enjoying Nicaraguan music. The fashion here is something I think about a lot as well. There are lots of bright blues, yellows, pinks, and purples with tight jeans. Gladiator sandals are also very popular. Women take a lot of pride in painting their toe nails and fixing their hair and makeup. At times, I have felt very ugly in this city. I wish I would have brought some different clothes.
I go through waves of liking Nicaragua. In general, I do. The people have been very nice. I love some of the music. And, the streets are lively. At times, the piropos (cat calls) really bother me. The trash also bothers me. There is a bench in the park next to my house where people are supposed to dump their trash. Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday it is collected. However, the collectors never pick up all the trash and people dump their trash on other days too. This past Wednesday no one even collected the trash. Almost every time Brenda and I walk by this trash pile, she comments about the trash or the people that dump it on the wrong day.
The showers are generally cold water. I keep waiting in the shower like I do at home for the hot water to come on even though it never does.
Finally, I am loving the SIT program and staff. I am learning a lot although the Spanish is often frustrating. My Spanish is improving each day and I feel that my understanding of Nicaraguan life is deepening each day as well. We have had some wonderful guest lecturers (Dora María Téllez, Luis Fley, Antonio Lacayo, Phillipe Montalbán). I enjoyed my 5 days in La Ceiba (rural homestay). We leave for the Atlantic Coast this Tuesday, which was part of the program that I was looking the most forward to before arriving in country.
How I would describe Nicaragua in a few adjectives: friendly, difficult, crazy, passionate, dirty, political
And don't forget it is the land of SOLDIERS and POETS and the land of LAKES and VOLCANOES.
I am feeling more comfortable with transportation as well. I have taken public buses around Managua. This weekend, some of the students and I went to Granada but I needed to return a day early. I found the bus stop and took the bus back to Managua by myself. I have also walked by myself from the grocery store. These seemingly little actions are tremendously liberating. For me, it can be difficult and frustrating to constantly walking in a group of 6 or so. I understand at times this is necessary and often is more fun. But, little bursts of freedom to walk by myself are great. It is still hard to sometimes know when it is 'okay' to walk by myself. For example, today my homestay mother said that I shouldn't walk to the study center at 1pm in the afternoon because it is a Sunday.
On another note, I am generally enjoying the food. Beans and rice have not gotten old yet. I eat a lot of chicken and sometimes plantains. I will try and post about typical Nicaraguan food soon. I also am enjoying Nicaraguan music. The fashion here is something I think about a lot as well. There are lots of bright blues, yellows, pinks, and purples with tight jeans. Gladiator sandals are also very popular. Women take a lot of pride in painting their toe nails and fixing their hair and makeup. At times, I have felt very ugly in this city. I wish I would have brought some different clothes.
I go through waves of liking Nicaragua. In general, I do. The people have been very nice. I love some of the music. And, the streets are lively. At times, the piropos (cat calls) really bother me. The trash also bothers me. There is a bench in the park next to my house where people are supposed to dump their trash. Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday it is collected. However, the collectors never pick up all the trash and people dump their trash on other days too. This past Wednesday no one even collected the trash. Almost every time Brenda and I walk by this trash pile, she comments about the trash or the people that dump it on the wrong day.
The showers are generally cold water. I keep waiting in the shower like I do at home for the hot water to come on even though it never does.
Finally, I am loving the SIT program and staff. I am learning a lot although the Spanish is often frustrating. My Spanish is improving each day and I feel that my understanding of Nicaraguan life is deepening each day as well. We have had some wonderful guest lecturers (Dora María Téllez, Luis Fley, Antonio Lacayo, Phillipe Montalbán). I enjoyed my 5 days in La Ceiba (rural homestay). We leave for the Atlantic Coast this Tuesday, which was part of the program that I was looking the most forward to before arriving in country.
How I would describe Nicaragua in a few adjectives: friendly, difficult, crazy, passionate, dirty, political
And don't forget it is the land of SOLDIERS and POETS and the land of LAKES and VOLCANOES.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)